Mexican in Brooklyn - II

Continuing our quest for authentic Mexican food, we finally got down to the much discussed Red Hook ball fields. Despite the presence of the busy Ikea in the neighborhood, this place gets largely ignored by non soccer players rest of the year around; but on summer afternoons, becomes a buzzing beehive teeming with Mexican and Hispanic food afficiaonados. All along the boundries of the soccer fields, people line up outside mobile carts vending everything from corn on the cob and gigantic quesadillas to ceviche and tacos; and we stood in line to get ours. The stall offered 'huaraches' which were super sized tacos on a masa flour tortilla and we opted for a chorizo version. The Hispanic man at the counter brusquely asked we we wanted guacamole and proceeded to dab a rather large helping on to the huarache. He topped it with some shredded lettuce and some creama fresca.

The Huarache was quite tasty; all ingredients freshly made and with a quick squeeze of lime made for a perfect start. The only downside - the tortilla started getting soggy in the center, weighed down with all the toppings and needed to be eaten rather quickly to prevent it from turning into a mush.

On the other hand, the tacos which were similar in concept but smaller in size, held their composure rather well. No guacamole here; we laid on a couple of spoons of their bright red and green salsas; now, this was definitely better; possibly a pointer to why tacos are the more popular dish between the two.
We washed it all down with some agua fresca - chose pineapple juice which turned out to be fresh and refreshing.

Took a long lazy break lazing around watching the football match that was playing out in front of us. The blue team had gotten a penalty which they duly converted into a goal. We felt like screaming 'goaaaal' the way latino commentators do but decided against it as no one else including the winning team looked excited enough !

We couldn't leave without trying the pupusas on offer. Looked around and decided that the best one was the one with the longest lines ! The pictorial menus looked enticing; displaying everything from corn tamales to chicharron and plantain chips. Pupusas were obviously the most popular and we quickly hopped into line for ours.After what was a seemed an interminable wait, we got to the counter. The enterprising stall owners had a person out taking orders from people way back in the line and that was for a reason. Pupusas take real long to cook and need to be eaten hot off the griddle.They are really savory pancakes made out of a rice flour or corn flour shell and stuffed with vegetable or protein of your choice. We chose ours - cheese and flor de loroco - which are buds of a national flower of El Salvador. We couldn't resist adding a side of the lusciously long and crunchy plantain chips. The pupusas were dished up topped with pickled cabbage slaw also called 'curtido' and pickled jalapeno slices. We added a dash of their bright red salsa. The stuffed cheese had melted and flowed out forming a nice brown crust on the griddle becoming one with the outer rice shell.

The loroco was probably a bit tart by itself but mixed with the gooey stringy melted cheese and the mildly fermented rice shell, it was rather difficult to distinguish; kind of like finely chopped okra for the lack of a better description. Nevertheless, all of the ingredients and accompaniments gel together creating a nice melange of flavor.

The chips were fresh and crunchy; with a bit of heft that is uncommon in traditional banana chips from India. We chose a quite refreshing mango agua fresca to wash it all down. These vendors at Red Hook ball fields were a revelation and brought NYC back in contention for good Hispanic street food.

Mexican in Brooklyn - I

NYC is deemed a bit of a culinary wasteland when it comes to authentic Mexican cuisine. Even it's most faithful denizen would agree that many other large metropolises; LA, Houston, San Antonio even Chicago etc. have it beat on most things Hispanic whether it is burritos and tacos or more complex moles and ceviche. However, there is a sizeable Hispanic population in the Sunset Park neighborhood of Brooklyn. And that made it probably the best place to get ourselves an authentic taco fix. Just like any true ethnic neighborhood in the outer boroughs of NYC, Sunset Park too has this ability to envelop and transport you to another land. The people walking the streets, the grocery stores offering exotic latino ingredients like achiote pastes, dried epasote leaves and cactii in the produce aisle or small shops vending phone cards with 'Especial' (sic) rates to Santiago, Mexico City and Bolivia; all elements that get you feeling you've landed someplace in Latin America; not a tony borough of the Big Apple. Even on a lazy Sunday afternoon, parking was a bit of a pain but we got a fairly sweet spot right next to Sunset Park. We had to have disciplined ordering.. the aim here was to cover as much ground as possible; or atleast as much as our stomachs allowed us to. First stop was Tacos Matamoros; the place that Chowhounds seem to rave about. Oddly, this place did not resemble your inexpensive Mexican restaurant. It had soft lighting and wood paneled walls, akin to an upscale bar. We ordered a 'Tostada de Ceviche' - kind of like a 'Sev Puri' minus the sev or the potatoes; replaced instead with a sweet seafood salad and topped with humongous avocado slices. The tostada was nice and crunchy and the squid and shrimp were fresh and barely 'cooked' in the marinade; however the sauce had a cloying sweetness which overpowered the refreshing cilantro-limey sour tang that one expects in a well marinated ceviche. Next on order were the star attraction - the tacos. We stuck to our agenda limiting ourselves to a plate of tres tacos - 3 tiny soft tortillas topped to the gills - one with tender well seasoned meat - the 'Al Pastor' - pork shaved off the spit (like the Lebanese Shawarma or the Greek Gyro) , another with Carnitas - supposedly roast pork - which had turned rather dry. Finally, last but not the least, the Chorizo sausage was greasy as expected - some of the red oil threatening to drip off the open end of the tortilla but the sausage itself was quite flavorful and tender. All of the tacos were copiously topped with finely chopped onion and cilantro. Yes, the meat on the Carnitas lacked a bit of character, and the proportion of raw onions and cilantro to the meat seemed to border on the excessive. But that would be nitpicking. The tortillas were soft and fresh; accompanied with slices of raw radish; a quick squeeze of the lime slices, a dash of the salsas - both roja (red) and verde (green) and we were transported well south of the border. Make no mistake, this may have been no LA, Houston or even Chicago quality but it was miles better than the chain offerings of Baja Fresh and Chipotle. Compared to Taco Bell? Lets not even go there! Tacos were cheap - $1.50 for each while the Tostada was $3.50; well in line with expectations of a true authentic down home Mexican meal.

Our next stop was just across the street - Tacos Xochimilco (pronounced 'Zoshimilco') - another place held in rather high esteem by chowhounders. This was a smaller simpler place with more spartan interiors and not as many families/kids. They brought out a helping of fresh tortilla chips with a couple of bright green and red salsas. The chips were really crunchy out of the fryer but a tad bit oily. Not in a mood to set off a taco comparo, we decided to get something different. Settled on the corn tamale and a Pambazo Torta. Now, these were vegetarian treats - the corn tamale a traditional Latin American dish involving corn masa dough wrapped in a corn husk and steamed to cook through. Here, it was brought steaming to the table and was quite flavorful. There are numerous variations available with all kinds of meats and cheeses; even sweet ones with raisins and dried fruit. However we ordered a plain one with some salsa verde. The Pambazo Torta looked really interesting - a dish from the Veracruz region of Mexico, its a sandwich made by coating the bread with a red guajillo sauce and fried to a somewhat crispy crust.
Then, our version had potatoes layered on topped with crema (sour cream), queso fresco (cream cheese) and shredded lettuce. Tastewise, it fell a bit short since it lent itself to comparison with the pan Indian Pav bhaji or the Kutchi Dabeli which given the somewhat similar ingredients (crunchy spiced sandwich stuffed with spiced potato), have a much more complex flavor profile and easily trumped this torta.

Sunset Park around the corner turned out to be the ideal place to walk off a wee bit of those calories that we had packed on! We dragged ourselves up the rather steep walking track and our efforts were rewarded with some nice views of lower Manhattan

The park was bustling with families lazing around enjoying the summer sun and and as we rounded the turn we spotted Lady Liberty gazing back from across the harbor. From here, it truly appeared as if she was longing for a taste of Mexico here in Sunset Park.

Haemul Bokkeum - Seafood Stir Fry

After realizing that we had been frequenting Korean restaurants a bit too often, we rustled up some confidence to attempt this hitherto untried cuisine at home. Obviously, this meant that a visit to a Korean grocery store was in order. Finding a branch of 'Han Ah Reum' a.k.a. "H-Mart" - an American-Korean chain was the first step. Thankfully, we found one not too far away and hopped over in search of some basic korean ingredients. While we were quite experienced traversing grocery aisles in Chinese stores like Kan Man and Gold City, this was a bit different. It had lots of those smiley face icons with 'Hello Kitty' and toy robot like 'Manga' cartoon faces staring up from package covers of assorted shrimp crackers and sweet cookies and assorted bean paste filled snacks. And of course there was the Banchan (or 'panchan' as it is sometimes pronounced) - traditional small plate side dishes accompanying every meal in Korean restaurants" pre-packaged and on offer in the refrigerated section. Usually, we love it so much, we end up finishing the Banchan before the main dish arrives on our table :-) Much as it was difficult to avoid going overboard with Banchan shopping, we restricted ourselves to 3 small tubs.. boiled fermented black beans with sesame seeds (Image:top right), a baby clam Kimchi (Image:bottom right) and a stir-fried fish cake with chillies, green pepper, onion and carrots ('Uhmook Bokkeum') (Image:bottom left). Then, we strolled through the spice aisle looking for "Gochujang" - a savory and pungent fermented condiment made with red chili powder, glutinous rice powder mixed with powdered fermented Soybean and salt. (Image:top left).


Last but not the least, we equipped ourselves with a pack of mixed seafood comprising of clams, squid and shrimp.
We put together a quick stir fry and the recipe follows:

The sauce

3 tbsp Gochujang paste
1 tbsp soy sauce
1/2 tbsp rice wine vinegar (or regular vinegar or 'Sake')
2 tsp sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp chilli-oil (sesame oil infused with red chilli)
1/4 cup water

Main Ingredients
Ginger (1 tbsp)
Garlic (3 cloves)
1 Onion-thick slices or petals
1 cup broccoli crowns (steamed for just about 30 seconds in microwave)
1/4 cup green pepper slices
1/4 cup red pepper slices
Mix seafood pack or about 200 grams shrimp / boneless chicken
1 tblspoon toasted sesame seeds

Method

Heat oil and stir in finely chopped ginger, finely chopped garlic, onions , brocolli, green and red pepper slices stir frying for a minute. Add thawed seafood (after patting it dry). Stir fry the mix for a couple of minutes. Avoid overcooking the seafood which can turn chewy if overdone or the vegetables which should retain their crunch.

Meanwhile, reduce the sauce by cooking it on high flame for about couple of minutes.

Stir in the reduced sauce and continue cooking for a minute to just lightly coat the vegetables and seafood. Sprinkle the toasted sesame seeds over and serve with hot boiled white rice.

Bhutte ka kees - My take on a spicy sweet corn snack from Indore Madhya Pradesh

Though I haven't visited the foodie destination of Indore in Madhya Pradesh, I have heard so much about its magical chaats that it was time I tried my hand at some traditional Indori street food. I picked something that called for ingredients which I had easy access to. Jersey like much of the rest of the US has bushels of fresh sweet corn on sale and the famed 'Sarafa' special "Bhutte ka kees" (Grated spicy corn) came to mind. 'Sarafa' Bazaar is this street of jewellery shops which morphs into a foodie street selling tasty wonders that are exclusive to Indore. Of course, having never tasted the original I had to give it my own take! So, do be aware this may be a complete variation on the Sarafa original.

Ingredients :

1/2 inch piece of ginger-grated

4 small green chillies - finely chopped

1/4 tsp cumin seeds

1/4 tsp mustard seeds

1/4 tsp asafoetida

1/4 tsp turmeric powder

1/4 tsp red chilli powder

2 cloves powdered

5-6 curry leaves (roughly chopped)

4 cobs of corn - grated or kernels coarsely chopped in chopper

1/4 cup milk

2 tsp oil

1 tsp ghee (clarified butter)

salt to taste

Garnish :

2 tbsp corainder leaves - finely chopped

1 small onion - finely chopped

4 quarters of lemon

1/2 cup of fine sev (crispy gram flour vermicilli)

1/4 tsp of chaat masala or pani-puri masala

Optional :

Green chutney (used for bhel/sev-puri or any other chaats),

shredded coconut

Method :

Heat oil and ghee and add all ingredients other than corn, milk and salt. Cook the ginger for 1/2 minute and then add grated corn. Add salt and milk and cover. Cook for 15 minutes till corn is soft and cooked completely.

Garnish with all the accompaniments and serve hot. If you like fresh green coriander chutney (used in chats), serve on the side with the "bhutte ka kees".

Enjoy!!!

Lakruwana - Sri Lankan in Staten Island

Having watched Tony Bourdain tour and gorge all over Sri Lanka on the Travel Channel, it brought back faint memories of a trip to the Emerald Isle ages ago. Then a cousin tasted his first Sri Lankan curry and proclaimed 'This is nothing like Indian... Its totally different!', the refrain that Bourdain himself declared on his Ceylon episode. We had to go seek Lankan cuisine. Googling up 'Sri Lankan food' revealed a rather surprising snippet of information - Staten Island, that bastion of Italian American immigrants, was also home to a huge Sri Lankan community and to some of the best Sri Lankan in the area. Amongst the recommended ones were Lakruwana/Sanrasa and New Asha. We decided on the former, having read that New Asha has more of a take-out joint feel. Despite proximity of Staten Island to the Jersey shore, we decided to take the quintessential approach into SI. Why fret it when there is a free ferry ride offering grand views of lower Manhattan, the east river bridges and of course a closeup of Lady Liberty; one of the few places where tourists and locals alike, stand shoulder to shoulder taking in the sweeping views of the Big Apple.

The 30 minute ride across the bay drops you off at the Staten Island ferry terminal. From here, its a short walk along Victory Blvd until you hit Bay St. At the corner of Bay and Victory is this tiny looking but easy to spot restaurant entrance. Step in and the restaurant is quite roomy; pleasantly decorated with photos and artifacts from what was erstwhile Ceylon.

Weekend lunch at Asian restaurants often mean buffets. While we are normally rather wary of such lunch buffets that offer about 20 odd dishes; each one undistinguishable from the other; we had heard good things about this buffet.

On offer was a nice choice of assorted Sri Lankan dishes all with distinct and varied flavors. There was a Chicken Curry and a curried Kingfish both in a coconut milk base, a nice rice vermicelli stir fried with vegetables kind of like the singapore noodles and a Sri Lankan vegetable biryani. But most of these were quite similar to dishes in a Indian buffet.

What was different were the 'Sambols' or spicy chutneys. Whether it was the 'Lunu Miris' - a bright red fiery looking onion and red chili paste or the milder 'Pol Sambola' - an orange colored coconut based onion green chilli spiked chutney which resembled some south Indian chutney- they were both extremely fresh and flavorful. The french beans sauteed in a slight coconut milk base were great too; normally we aren't fans of coconut milk based curried vegetables; besides its quite easy to overcook green beans into a dull gloopy mess. However, these beans held their own with lots of crunch and the slightest hint of coconut milk and spice. Then, there was the bright green mallung (mallum?) - a salad of lightly sauteed greens tossed together with chopped red onion, green chillis and shredded fresh coconut; like a cross between a 'Kosambari' (a salad) and 'Upkari' (green beans stir fried with shredded coconut) - 2 Konkani dishes we grew up eating. The dish that would take the prize for the oddest was one that was made of garlic. No garlic wasn't one of the ingredients. It was THE MAIN ingredient. This would have to be an addition to the menu at 'The Stinking Rose' and similar restaurants. Later, a quick search revealed that South Indian Chettinad cuisine features a somewhat similar dish called 'Mullagu Poondu Kozhambu'; a must try for all garlic lovers. There were other dishes; a dry potato curry and a eggplant one; both quite uncharacteristic in taste and flavor and completely avoidable.

We had to try the exclusively Sri Lankan Dutch influenced dish called the 'Lamprais' or 'Lampijst'. This "special occasion" dish of flavored rice served with lamb, fish cutlet, ash plantains and egg is wrapped in a banana leaf and baked in a low oven. At Lakruwana, it came wrapped in a banana leaf and was served on a traditional rice sieve. Opening up the banana leaf revealed a steaming dish full of cashews, fried baby eggplants, sauteed browned onions and boiled eggs on top of a fragrant biryani stewed with meats of your choice all capped off with a rather tasty fish cutlet. Mix all toppings into the biryani and enjoy.

Finally on offer was a desert unique to Sri Lanka called 'Kiri Peni' - regular yoghurt served with a brown palm sugar treacle on the side. The yoghurt was like any traditional Indian 'Dahi'.. the treacle was inoffensive but not necessarily something we'd go in search of.

The walk back to the ferry terminal and the breezy ferry ride back to Manhattan was a much required respite that helped with all of the buffet eating stupor and made for a nice epicurean cum 'siteseeing' day trip.

Kouign Aman and brownies from Connecticut

We were out on a weekend trip to New Haven CT; home to Yale University, the Wooster street family pizzerias and Louie's Lunch - the inventor of the hamburger. Wooster Street and Wooster Square lay claim to being the Little Italy of New Haven. Decked out in traditional Italian colors of red, white and green flags, the street lives up to its billing with American-Italian restaurants and shops sporting signs of traditional Italian ice, cannoli and other Italian treats lining the street.

Off one of the side streets, we spotted a Saturday farm market (http://www.cityseed.org/) with stalls selling everything from fresh organically grown vegetables, fresh cheeses, jams and jellies to cured meats and neighborhood bakeries selling their goodies.
Wedged in between was a large stall from SoNo Bakery of Norwalk CT, vending pastries, confections, cookies, fresh fruit turnovers, breads, muffins and lots more.
Bewildered by the choices, we were attempting to navigate through the assortment of turnovers, muffins, tarts and pies on offer when we spotted this odd looking pastry with a even odder name 'Kouign Aman'. 'Kouign Aman' (pronounced KOO-ine ah-MAHN) is a pastry from the Brittany region in France. "Its pretty rare in the area and is one of our hot sellers" the man at the counter prompted us.

Apparently, it translates to “cake with butter” in Breton. Coming from the same family as the brioche, the croissant or the danish, it actually looked like a croissant gone wrong. It sports a rich inviting crisp golden shell studded with sugar crystals . Turn it over and you notice a glistening sticky underside thanks to a caramelized layer of sugar at the bottom.

Bite through the crunchy coating and the rich buttery taste comes surging through. The insides are not as hollow as a croissant; almost as flaky; but just a little denser than its famous crescent shaped sibling.

The crunchy caramelized sugar crust gives way to a softer breadlike inside. The sweetness from the caramel is well balanced by a mildly sour flavor from the yeast. In fact, the fermentation brings to mind, flavors of a Maharashtrian sweet called 'Anarsay'.
Apparently, the key difference between Kouign Aman and other baked pastries is that with every fold of the dough, sugar is layered on allowing it to meld and caramelize into the bready dough as the pastry bakes.

Surprisingly, there is none of the excessively cloying sweetness that one would expect from the sugar.Yes, all you 'Pain Au Chocolats' and 'Almond Croissants', you have a new challenger to the sweet puff pastry throne.

We picked one up to go; but couldn't resist tasting it by the time we got back to the car. One bite and we went back for more..

And how could we stop with at one treat? The chocolate brownie looked absolutely divine and longing to be picked up. It came home with us and opening up the neatly packaged sweet revealed a rich, dark, decadent, moist and messy chocolate nirvana.

SoNo Baking

101 S Water St

Norwalk, CT 06856

(203) 847-7666

sonobaking.com

Quesadillas

A quesadilla recipe with a little inspiration from our friends 'MadSan'.

Ingredients

10 soft taco flour or corn tortillas

1 pack of Mexican blend shredded cheese (substitute with any cheese that melts well - Monterrey / PepperJack / Colby or a decent Cheddar)

2 tbsp taco seasoning

1/4 tsp red chilli flakes

1/4 tsp cumin powder

1 chopped 'chipotle pepper in adobo sauce' (optional - imparts a smoky flavor - available in Mex aisle)

1 can of pickled jalapeno peppers (small cans available in Mex aisle)

1/4 tsp of garlic powder (else substitute with fresh chopped garlic)

1/4 tsp oregano seasoning

1 green pepper sliced

1 red pepper sliced

2 medium sized red onions sliced

8-9 sliced mushrooms (optional)

2 cups baby spinach leaves (optional)

Note: This can be made non-vegetarian by adding a few slices of grilled chicken ( grill chicken breasts adding cumin powder, red chilli flakes, oregano and salt)

Method:

Stir fry the sliced onions adding the spices (taco seasoning, pepper flakes, chipotle pepper, cumin powder and oregano) for a couple of minutes.

Add sliced peppers and mushrooms and cook on medium heat for a couple of minutes more.

Ensure that you don't overcook any of the vegetables so that they retain their crunch.

Toss in the spinach leaves just before you turn off the heat. The remainder of the heat is enough to wilt the leaves slightly.

Lightly butter or oil both sides of the tortilla and warm on the griddle for about 30 seconds.

Place about 2 tablespoons of shredded cheese on 1 half of the tortilla. Arrange a couple of tablespoons of vegetables over the cheese on the same half of the tortilla. Add a couple of slices of canned jalapeno.

Spread some more shredded cheese over the top.

Fold over the empty half of the tortilla so that it covers the half with the cheese and vegetables.

Grill the tortilla till the cheese melts and the tortilla browns lightly. Use a spatula to press down on the tortilla. Now, flip over the folded tortilla and brown the other half too.

Once both sides are nice and crisp, remove from pan and cut into 2 wedges with a pizza cutter.

Serve with a side of sour cream, corn tortilla chips and bottled salsa or fresh Pico de Gallo.

* Fresh Pico de Gallo

2 finely diced tomatoes

1 finely chopped medium red onion

1 finely chopped green chilli

1 tblspoon chopped cilantro (coriander)

Juice of half a lime.

Salt to taste.

Toss above ingredients together and serve with the quesadilla quarters.

Flushing NY

Flushing, NY

Walking though the busy downtown Flushing, you could very well be in Beijing, Seoul or Taipei. Chinese and Korean billboards crowd the horizon and English signage is reduced to a bare minimum. Even the KFCs, Burger Kings and Bank Ams sport ads in Mandarin! Street vendors hawk their wares off the street selling shoes, purses, lottery tickets, phone calling cards, fruits, even steaming skewered kebabs hot off a charcoal grill! Yes, Chinese do love their meat on a stick and there is a distinct bit of Muslim Chinese representation in this part of the world.

If you wanted to ever experience first hand; a true microcosm of global diversity, this has to be it. How else can you describe a scene where a sari clad Indian lady shops for groceries assisted by a Hispanic worker inside a gigantic Chinese supermarket in the suburbs of the largest city in America?

We wind our way through the hustle and bustle gazing at the exotic shop windows, some showing off their glazed Peking ducks; others sporting huge colorful backlit images of Chinese or Korean delicacies; dim sum and lunch specials posted up front. Curious aromas waft out of the open windows; some off putting, others rather inviting.
Our destination this time is a mall. More specifically, its the "food court" of the mall. As we approach the "Golden Mall" on Main St., a sign directs us toward the basement to the food court. This looks odd; nothing like your traditional food court with the free General Tsao's Chicken handouts. Walk gingerly down a narrow flight of stairs into what is essentially the basement of the "mall". It truly feels like you have stepped into some shop in some faraway Chinese city like Chengdu or Shaanxi.

You are met with tightly packed stalls and chairs all squeezed along a narrow passage. Looking around, you realize all signs, save a few, are Mandarin only! No worries though; many vendors have huge numbered images of their foods and there is the occasional smattering of English thrown in for good measure. A bewildering array of foods is on display; large cauldron of soups, steamed and fried dumplings stuffed with exotic sounding lotus paste, sweet potato and various meats; noodles being freshly drawn out of dough and stir fried on huge woks.

You look for your desired stall number; the only visible indicator that gives away the identity of the stall - unless you can read Mandarin of course. We are headed to stall # 36 aka 'Xi'an Famous Foods'. This is food from the remote province of Xi'an and its capital Shaanxi; apparently a city with a notable muslim population. There are reams and reams of pages written up on Stall#36.

Suffice to say, we didn't have to think twice on what to order once we got there. The fairly large number of regulars awaiting their order were all gunning for the 2 most popular dishes on the menu and we did likewise.

Item #2 or 'Liang Pi' were slightly chewy al dente cold noodles and crunchy bean sprouts, accentuated by chunks of soft spongy wheat gluten all tossed together in a medium spicy garlicky oily gravy topped with coriander and chillis. Literally translated, 'Liang Pi' means 'cold skin'; but there is no meat involved. Its all vegetarian. You attempt to dunk and roll up the noodle, bean sprout and wheat gluten mix that you managed to put together with the chopsticks into the gravy for maximum flavor and in one motion, drive contents held by the chopsticks into your mouth. Chances are; you've already dropped some of that oil if not a piece of trailing noodle on your white shirt. But its all worth it.

Especially for whats coming next.. Yes Item #3 on the menu is the lamb sandwich / burger or 'zi ran chao yang rou jia mo', considered by many to be one of the finer sandwiches in the city.

Toasted English muffin like bread pockets are filled with small spicy green chilli spiked chunks of roasted lamb. Those in India can relate it to a premade kheema pav.

The sandwich is greasy but somehow the oil seems to hold the sandwich together keeping everything moist and flavorful. The Muslim influence is quite evident as one hits flavors like cumin and anise which you wouldn't normally associate with any of the known Chinese flavors - Cantonese /Sichuan /Hunan cooking.

Seasoned visitors can be seen dunking the lamb sandwich into the remnants of the gravy accompanying the 'Liang Pi'. The owner has proudly put up a large autographed photo of a recent visitor - Anthony Bourdain - who will probably feature this tiny shop in one of his upcoming episodes. There are other famous spots next door - Chengdu Heaven and Lanzhou Noodles; but they will have to wait. For tonight, the sandwich holds its place on the tongue.

Gỏi Cuốn - Vietnamese Summer rolls - Recipe

Gỏi Cuốn - Vietnamese Summer rolls - Recipe

These are cool, refreshing summer salad rolls that are much lighter (and healthier!) on the palate than traditional deep fried spring rolls available off Chinese and Thai menus. They can be custom made to suit individual tastes and spice levels.

Ingredients:

8 Rice wrappers. Can be substituted with lettuce leaves.

1/4 cup vermicilli noodles (pre-cooked or left-over noodles would be a great substitute) tossed with some chili garlic sauce

1/4 cup cucumber julienned

1/4 cup carrot julienned

1/4 cup bean sprouts

1/4 tblsp grated ginger (or julienned)

1/4 tblsp finely chopped green chillies

1 tblsp finely chopped cilantro leaves

1 tblsp finely chopped basil leaves (optional)

1 tblsp finely chopped mint leaves (optional)

2 tblsp coarsely chopped roasted peanuts

1 tblsp vinegar

1 tblsp sugar

salt to taste

Dipping Sauce or 'Nuoc mam':

2 tblsp lime juice

2 tblsp fish sauce ('Nuoc cham')

3 tblsp sugar (add more to adjust for your desired sweetness)

1 tblsp vinegar

Pinch of salt (per taste since fish sauce is already salty)

Add some of the grated ginger and finely chopped chillies to give it some more freshness.

Procedure:

1. Toss the julienned cucumber, carrots and sprouts with the vinegar, salt and sugar and chill for a while before serving.

2. Soak the rice wrapper in water for about 30 seconds to soften it up.

3. Place a tsp of vermicilli and a tsp of chilled vegetables (from #1) in the center of the wrapper.

4. Top off with a pinch of green chilies and grated ginger.

5. Garnish with Basil and cilantro leaves and chopped peanuts.

6. Fold the roll tucking in the opposite ends followed by the sides.

7. Roll it tightly into a 'cigar' shaped spring roll.

8. To eat, dip the roll in to the dipping sauce at each bite and consume!

Banh Mi - the best sandwich ever?

Banh Mi is one of the best street foods to come out of Vietnam and truly defines the meaning of 'fusion cuisine'. Besides, it is probably be one of the best sandwiches I may have ever tasted. It involves combining ingredients that one wouldn't typically expect to used together under the hood of a single sandwich! The best banh mi starts with slitting open a warm crusty slim Franco-Vietnamese baguette - made out of wheat and rice flour (which gives it soft insides and a perfect crackly crust on the outside); and loading it with asian and pseudo euro fillings. Consider this classic version called the 'banh mi thit nuong' it features - hold your breath- bits of sweet glaze barbequed pork, pate paste, creamy mayonnaise, hot 'Sriracha' (hot chilli garlic sauce), Vietnamese ham, sweet, crunchy pickled carrots, daikon, cucumber and chopped jalapenos with a sprig of cilantro (coriander) added for a finish. Its difficult to imagine all of this coming together but somehow; just somehow, the rich meats, the cold refreshing vegetables, tangy fish sauce ('nuoc mam'), and the creamy mayo notes accompanied by a sudden final jab of the spicy chillis and searingly hot Sriracha all meld together to create the perfect knockout sandwich concoction I've eaten! Non pork eaters can find versions made with Chicken, tofu and vegetables. In fact, there are creative additions like 'catfish' and 'sloppy bao' at the new 'Baoguette Cafe' in New York city.

Some of the best examples are available in New York city can be found at:

In Manhattan:

Banh Mi So 1: 369 Broome St. New York NY 10013

Saigon Bakery: 138 Mott St. New York NY 10013

Baoguette : 61 Lexington Ave. New York NY (between 25th and 26th st.)

In Brooklyn: Ba Xuyen: 4222 8th Ave. Brooklyn NY

Other Viet hotspots to the left of the Atlantic hold their own; Houston with 'Les Givrals' and 'Saigon', LA with 'Banh Mi Do Thanh' and San Fran with Saigon Sandwich on Larkin St. Toronto and Vancouver have their favs too.

Prakash Hotel, Dadar W, Mumbai

Prakash Hotel in Dadar just off Shivaji Park is home to landmark authentic Maharashtrian snacks and snack meal replacements. It meets all requirements of being a true-blue foodie joint; a 'chowhoundish mecca' if you will. And how is that so? For starters there is usually a wait at peak hours to get in. Spot a seat and grab it before its gone! Its drab no-frills interiors are the epitome of form and function; whirring ceiling fans on top and uniformed waiters whizzing about with Germanic efficiency. Then theres the attitude; and loads of it. Within a few seconds of you sliding into your coomunal bench seat, the waiter stops by giving you the once over; by now, ideally you are expected to have made up your mind and declared your order; the menu laminated to protect it from spillage is at hand but most regulars don't seem to ever take so much as a peek at it. The waiter rattles out the order to the open kitchen and within a few minutes, slam dunks the order down to your table. The 'Sabudana wadas' (spicy sago fritters) are top of the heap; a sole reason to make the trip. The crust of the 'wada' is fried to a perfect crunch; every single sago seed deep fried to perfection with intermittent groundnut and fried chili adding to the pleasure. And yet, somehow it doesn't seem over the top greasy. The accompanying chutney is a masterpiece in itself; quite different from any you've had; a nutty concoction of spice tempered ever so slightly by the abundant groundnut a la chunky mode. Make sure you order the extra chutney in advance. You are going to want it. 'Crack' open the crunchy shell of the wada and the uncover soft sago seeds glistening and studded with nuts all perfectly cooked and spiced. Combine the outer shell, the steaming insides and a bit of that chutney into a single bite; and you are in heaven.

Their 'Batata vadas' (or potato fritters) and 'Misal' (spicy curried lentils topped with a spicy trail mix, lime and chopped onion) are all good and recommended; the vadas come with the same superstar groundnut chutney that raises the mediocre to great though the vadas are capable enough to make it on their own. Their sabudana khichdi has got to be good; after all, its the base used for their signature dish! Also popular at meal times are their Masale Bhaat, Puri Bhaaji; a bit watered down but good nevertheless.

The misal is served in a tiny plate; crunchy farsan bits scattered on top of the soft spicy curried lentils topped with chopped onion and coriander. A small squeeze of the accompanying lemon, toss it all up once or twice using the larger plate offered and you are good to go! All of the above is typically washed down with their signature 'Piyush' a sweet yoghurt based drink(actually liquid shrikhand); possibly the only drink they have on offer besides water!

Prakash Hotel,

Gokhale Road,

Dadar W Mumbai 400 028

Shatila Bakery Dearborn, MI

Dearborn Michigan is home to Ford Motor Company and happens to be the heart of the middle-eastern diaspora in the US; also obviously home to hundreds of middle-eastern businesses, grocery stores, bakeries and restaurants. But the one store that is arguably the crown jewel of

all Dearborn businesses is the Shatila Bakery. Driving down Warren Ave. in Dearborn, you are transported to a different world all together. Shops sporting artificial minarets with Arabic signs abound and distinctly middle eastern shopping (Lebanese, Syrian, Iraqi, Jordanian etc); think arabic grocery store chains, arab laundries and car washes and tiny eateries with names like "Mr. Shawarma" and "Pita Hut". But its hard to miss the shiny upscale rotunda shaped

Shatila outlet standing out like a beacon admist the rather drab strip malls. Step in and you are transported to a glitzy faux middle eastern world complete with fake palm trees, granite and gilded trim all over. Don't waste too much time getting a ticket from the dispenser; the place can get real crazy during peak times like holiday weekends. As you wait for your ticket number to be called, you can't help but be taken aback but the sheer multitude

of Lebanese sweets.. If you are a diabetic, this is absolutely a no-entry zone. And if you're not, be prepared to leave with it! Ok, there are some savory options available like the fried meat kibbeh, spinach, meat and chicken pies (like Monginis mini pizzas; only thinner crusts) topped with zahtar and some merely with labneh and zahtaar for those looking for alternatives.

Of course, their Baklava is their claim to fame; these are not your run of the mill syrupy sweet ones sitting lonesome on the counter

waiting to be consumed.

This is after all, Baklava Central; home to over 30 varieties of the much loved sweet available in all shapes and varieties. There is the traditional diamond shaped walnut filled baklava; then there are ones with creative names like 'Bird's Nest' - pistachios packed in like sardines in a can into the phyllo pastry, and then some shaped like the barfis in Indian sweet store with barely pronounceable names like 'Osmaliah' (crispy honey soaked vermicilli enrobed around a cream 'sandwich' served with rose syrup pictured above) and 'Ballourie'. First timers will surely want to get it all; possible via their "Mixed Trays"; assortments of the baklava pastries. Highly recommended are the Bassma, the Burrma and the birds nest. There are lots of other goodies made out of dates, honey and nuts such as the mamoul, the Kashta; even a

Pistachio topped rice pudding (see pic). What sets them apart is the fact that they seem to use clarified butter a.k.a. 'Ghee' instead of mere butter that everyone else uses here in the US for baklava. That and the supreme quality of nuts used makes them easily the best baklava in the US.On the other side are exotic looking fancy European pastries, chocolate eclairs, Swiss logs, tiramisus, fresh fruit topped parfaits and chocolate mouse amongst others. A third counter vends their extremely popular and very unique ice creams with a middle-eastern twist; rose flavors, mango, coconut and others - all with a rose flavor base. We weren't big fans of the ice cream though and would take a pass. For those of you unable to make the trip to Detroit and Dearborn,

Shatila will gladly ship most of their products by overnight shipping.

Shatila Bakery
14300 W Warren Ave.

Dearborn, MI 48126

http://www.shatila.com/